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2500 S (2.7L PI) [2000 / 2500] (Glen Johnson) -» Login to contact this user!
Failed water pump replacement (13 photos)
Datsun Roller Half Shafts (1 photo)
Rust cut and respray 2011 (108 photos)
Oil cooler hose fixes (5 photos)
Fitting Koni's and modified antiroll bar setup (14 photos)
Trying to find front-end clonks (11 photos)
Old Archives from film shots (4 photos)
Bosch 60A Alternator Conversion (5 photos)
HiTorque Starter (8 photos)
Exhaust (2 photos)
Road Trips (10 photos)
The Finished Engine Bay - April 2003 (2 photos)
Air/Fuel Ratio Meter (5 photos)
Dashboard Customisation (12 photos)
Body views (20 photos)
Original Engine Bay and removal of engine (5 photos)
Engine Bay Respray (3 photos)
Near Complete Motor (13 photos)
2.7L Block and Pistons (15 photos)
Fuel and Ignition Gear (5 photos)
Head and Valve Gear (11 photos)
Brakes and Suspension (20 photos)
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SO WHAT'S IT LIKE:
The current motor was installed at 77,315km. It's seen 7200RPM at short bursts but we're limiting it to 6500 as this is still a standard crank and don't want any surprises. Even though it will rev right through the factory red line I don't see any point in going much harder than about 6700.
There's been some trouble with rough starts and rich idle due to an incorrectly configured metering unit (and linkage trouble), but it's a reliable piece of fun now. I still have had the occasional 4 or 5cyl only starts when hot and need to rev it for about 30sec to make it even out. Someone mentioned something about dodgy banjo bolts.... In truth I think it was the dodgy injector I found a while ago - see the blog for comments.
It goes much harder than the standard S motor but not as hard as I would have hoped. I was aiming for 180-200 BHP but compared to other cars I think it would be more realistic to say that it puts out 160-180 BHP. I plan to install a roller rocker kit - hopefully will get away with an increased ratio kit without putting a valve through a piston crown or binding up the valve springs (fingers crossed).
It pulls strongly from about 1500 upwards in any gear - but below that it can be rather lazy. It's too lean down low and I've had trouble sorting this out - although it now seems good.. I think the min-fuel setting on the metering unit is to blame but have also had trouble sorting out a good linkage setup. I have trouble with part throttle operation unless the choke is out a bit. It comes on song near 3500 RPM and keeps going effortlessly up past 6 - and if you're keen it will wind right off the tacho but the power curve starts dropping off a little after 6 anyway. It feels like peak power is somewhere up in the mid 6's which is strange as the cam profile suggests more like 5800. I'd also guess that peak torque was somewhere around 2500-3500RPM. Compare all of this to the original motor which felt like it was going to fly apart as it hit a brick wall at 5650RPM (power also fell off steeply after 5000). I don't think I've lost any of the low RPM torque of the original motor.
The handling mods have resulted in something very chuck-able, very reliable and predictable, but it has resulted in greater understeer than the original setup - especially with the addition of the rear bar. Flexibility over nasty humps on curves and steep driveway entrances is terrible given the reduced wheel travel - but on the street and HWY it is a treat to drive - being very very direct in hand and stable to boot.
The Bosch pump is noisy - and the increased strain on the alternator often left me with a dead battery (after night time driving) so I recommend an alternator upgrade if you're adding more 'always-on' electrical items as I have.
Prior to fitting the oil cooler the pressure was fairly inconsistent and gave 80PSI at 800RPM cold, 20PSI at 800RPM hot and 60PSI at 2500RPM. After oil cooler installation pressure figures changed to 65, 28 and 60PSI respectively so as you can see the pressure stays much more consistent and the extremes have been chopped off. I am not yet running a thermostat on the cooler so I will comment on that later. I'm concerned about winter operation being too cold.
It idles with 9-10inHg of manifold vacuum and although a bit cammy it will idle suitably as low as 500 if you were so inclined. I leave it at 7-800RPM idle for smoothness sake. However, given my lean fuel low RPM issues I've noticed the engine a lot nicer to use if the idle is set at about 1000RPM. I'm not sure why this is.
|Conversion of 2500 S to PI
In the quest for ever greater power and fun from the old girl we thought Graeme Reading might like to have a fiddle with the 'S'. This is essentially a copy of the motor in their Targa car apart ... more
|Kienzle Clock repair
The clocks in the 2000/2500/dolomite saloons always seem to be busted. Mine ran fine but gained at least 10 minutes every couple of days. I pulled it out of the dash with the plan to adjust the ... more
|Stag - 2500 S Alloy Wheel Refurbishment
I'll post full details here when I get the other photos processed.
1. Paint stripper.
2. Lathe down the edges to be clean
2. ... more
I've tried quite a few different guns mostly suction but recently got a gravity feed and love it. I reckon I'll try and get some more HVLP gravity fed guns and drop the suction stuff. They're too ... more