2.5pi Saloon 4 speed

  • Model:2000 / 2500
  • Year:1969
  • Purchase Date:1989-10-20
  • Reg:
  • Comm No:
  • VIN:
  • Engine No:
  • Paint Name:beige
  • Mileage:
  • Location: AU

No Mods the car was bought in 1989 and was my “other” car until it was taken off the road in 1992 for various reasons. It is currently in the shed. When time allows i will get it back on the road. It has been too long and look forward to hearing that sweet exhaust note again.

Things are looking better as I just bought a house with a BIG shed/garage. I hope to be moving the PI late January 2005 to it’s new home. I will now have the space to get on with it. More stuff after the move.

I am currently working on the set up up the suspension and brakes for this car. For more detail see my special interest categories.

Photo Galleries

Front suspension

(22/05/2015)

Real brakes for 2.5pi

(22/05/2015)

Special Interest Projects

Front Suspension & Brakes

After many hours of though and investigation I've decided to abandon the idea of fitting larger brakes to the front of my Mk1 PI Saloon. I've decided to go outside the box and try something different, but something i know. The plan is to replace the complete Triumph strut, steering arm, lower control arm, radius rod and brake system with Datsun/Nissan parts. I know there will be some interesting issue to over come, however it should get me the set-up I desire at a reasonably low cost. After measuring the width of the control arm to crossmember, i headed of to the wreckers for a look, and discovered that 180b control arms will fit. They have a larger diameter location bolt, which benifit strength. So here appears the first problem, that is, they are longer than the Triumph arms. I ran a group G Datsun 1600 in the 80's for many years and nearly every car running then, was fitted with lengthened control arms. This was the easiest and cheepest way to get the negative front camber we needed. These were available off the shelf (exchange) from the many Datsun specialists throughout Australia. If we could legthen them back then, i see no reason why we can't shorten them now. This is what i'm currently looking at, in particular the correct lenght that will be needed. Once this is dicided i post some more information. UPDATED Today 3/12/05 i made a jig to which i could bolt the Triumph wheel hub and complete control arm and strut assembly to. Once bolted in place and leveled i marked out the arc of travel of control arm length through the arm to crossmember location hole on to the sheet of MDF. I then repeated the process with the Datsun strut assembly. Interestingly enough the arcs are not symetrical and the travel of the Triumph assy was considerably less. I mesured the difference between the two markings at the extremes of travel which were common to both assemblies and the average difference was 30mm. So it looks like the Datsun control arm needs to be shortened 30mm, which should put the hub mounting flange in the same position as the standard Triumph assembly. I will be hopefully dropping off the control arms some time this week to get shortened by the rally specialist that used to look after my 1600. i wouldn't recommend attempting this yourself there's a little more to it than you expect, and its not the sort of thing you want breaking. this is just the first step, in a long process. the final set-up will most likely have the small diameter springs/seats as used on the 240Z on 180B large stub axle struts. I've got a set sitting in the Triumph at the moment, but the body it too long so I'll have to look at shorten them. I've seen this done before, but will be asking some questions of some contacts i still have. With this type of strut I ran a 260 mm vented disc on the 1600 using Commadore front calipers. This worked well in serious competion, and to be honest, was cheep to build. We ran metal king pads, which we would buy from Kmart auto for about $58.00. I plan to use the 180B steering arms. The problems to overcome here that the tie rod ends are firstly larger than those on a Triumph, and secondly the are tapered the wrong way, as they have the Ball join under the steering arm, where as the Triumph tie rods are above. Thirdly the arms are shorter. my calculation indicate 2.38 turns lock to lock for Power steering, and 3.8 for unassisted steering racks. Alternative strut tops will be needed as the bolting flange of the datsun/nissan is infact larger than used on the Triumph. I've posted some photos on my car page, as i can't figure out how to put them here yet,as i progress.

Real brakes for 2.5pi

As we all know the brakes on these cars are OK for normal use, but if you are looking at doing some club motorsport, or want something better for your road car, the alternatives have been very limited. I have searched hi and low on the web for specific details for these modifications and have found that very little specific detail has ever been freely given. I will be adding photos and other details of the brake modifications that i am currently working on as i work it out. For a backgorund on this topic check out the forum "real brakes for Triumph 2.5pi" I've posted some pictures on my car page, as i can't figure out how to put them here yet.

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